The definitive wintry red
2005 Lillian, Shiraz/Mataro, John Brocksopp, Pemberton, Western Australia (£13.51, Domaine Direct, 020-7837 1142,
www.domainedirect.co.uk
).
John Brocksopp is a pioneering wine guru. An expert viticulturalist and visionary, he spent 25 years at Leeuwin Estate, in Margaret River, securing this winery’s reputation for exceptional wines for years to come.
These days he operates out of Pemberton, south-east of the Margaret River region, in the wild and wonderful western Australian countryside. The cool breezy nights and balmy days are perfect for growing tiptop grapes here and, although Pemberton might not be a famous wine region yet, there are some superbly crafted wines emerging.
John fashions subtle, sensual wines with a Rhône bent and this beautiful shiraz/mataro (or mourvèdre in Old World speak) is the definitive wintry red. With juicy blackberry fruit and aromatic spice and seasoning, this wine is not your typical Aussie red.
There is none of the hot alcohol or fresh-sawn wood that many of the celebrated shirazes show as a badge of honour, but which we, in truth, find hard to swallow. Instead, there is harmony, length, wistfulness and charm. Take my advice and buy as much as you can.
• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year.