Wine

A hearty red that will see off pricier rivals

Bottle of 2006 Spinifex wine

2006 Spinifex, Esprit, Barossa Valley, South Australia (£17.25, Caviste, 01256-770397).

Pete Schell is the guy behind the Spinifex label. He is a quiet chap and a contemplative and very astute wine maker. He set up Spinifex in 2001 with the idea of making truly great wines from some of the oldest vines in the Barossa Valley.

My favourite of his current releases is ’06 Esprit – a 34% mataro (mourvèdre), 31% grenache, 30% shiraz, 5% cinsault blend, which conjours up bonfire nuances, well-hung game and masses of macerated, oozing blackberries and plums.

Seemingly tailor-made for hearty, autumnal recipes and able to scare the living daylights out of a Châteauneuf-du-Pape at twice the price, this is a stunning wine and one that should encourage you to visit one of the three Caviste shops at your next opportunity – find them in Overton, Odiham and Stockbridge.

There you will also find another awesome Aussie red and one of the most menacing wines of the year – 2006 Schwarz Wine Company, Nitschke Black, Barossa Valley (£21.50). These vines were planted in 1968 by wine maker Jason Schwarz’s parents.

Drink it with your most stalwart of pals and you will all feel like champions.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year.