Two macho rosés
2008 Domaine de Jale Rosé, Cuvée Les Fenouils, (£56.35 per six bottles, Goedhuis & Co, 020-7793 7900) and 2008 Château d'Esclans Whispering Angel Rosé (£70.15 per six, Goedhuis) Côtes de Provence, France.
I am feeling a little generous this week because it's my birthday. That, and the fact that some of you think that I have peaked too early with my dismissal of all styles 'summery' so early in this autumnal period.
So, I have sneaked not one, but two rosés into this week's column because they are on the more macho side of the rosé spectrum and also because I don't agree with any wines being wholly seasonal.
So 2008 Jale gets the nod as the palest but most impactful rosé of the year. Fairy pink and yet with balls of steel, this is a wine that would feel as happy with a smoked salmon roulade as it would a lobster thermidor. I think that you ought to bolster your wine collection with this silent assassin and you will sleep easier knowing that it's on your side when it comes to confident entertaining.
2008 Château d'Esclans Whispering Angel Rosé (£70.15 per six, Goedhuis) is another Provençal offering with more richness and structure on the palate. Wade into legions of stir-fried prawns or Basque chicken stews and you'll worship rosé all year round.
• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year.