A bone dry and generously fruity sherry
Don Gonzalo, Dry Oloroso, VOS, Valdespino, Sherry, Spain (£24.95, half bottle £13.95, Lea & Sandeman, 020-7244 0522,
www.londonfinewine.co.uk
).
September signals an about-turn in dining habits for me. Out go the airy fairy rosés and frisky sauvignon blancs and in come the thoughtful reds and lusty whites.
I don't fall all of the way into winter mode because autumn is my favourite time of the year for seasonal food, so I tend to hang onto these medium-weight, sensual reds and succulent whites for as long as I can.
The autumn also heralds the arrival of richer, older sherries. My Manzanilla sits in the fridge door winking at me every time I delve inside, but it plays second fiddle to Mensa-membership-holding versions like my chosen Dry Oloroso – Don Gonzalo.
The full, mahogany hue and raisiny palate is sensational. There are caramel, fig, hazelnut and date notes scattered along the heroic length of flavour. It is bone dry, but seemingly generously fruity.
DG is to be drunk with roasted almonds, olives, salami and even well-hung game. You could even save some for choccies after a dinner party. DG is well priced and there is even a half bottle for you to trial if you are new to serious sherry.
• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year.