An aristocratic red for just a tenner
2007 Renato Ratti Nebbiolo, Piemonte, Italy (£10.99, Marks & Spencer).
I know nothing about this fabulously named producer, but I can tell you that this is one hell of a wine. Nebbiolo is an aristocratic red grape and the great wines of Barolo and Barbaresco are some of the most elucidating taste experiences imaginable. But these wines cost a fortune and invariably need time to age before they are ready to perform, so this is an expensive hobby.
The skilful route around this problem is to keep your beady eyes open for smart langhe nebbiolo (youthful, forward drinking nebbiolo from a good region in Piemonte) and cross your fingers that the wine maker is sound.
The downside is that the wine will be tart and edgy, but you've only lost a tenner or so, so it's not as big a gamble as prospecting for inexpensive red Burgundy!
Occasionally, though a really brilliant one comes along – Ratti, you're a hero. This wine is ready to drink and it reeks of the splendour of the Piemontese countryside. Run to M&S today and dive into this delicious wine.
• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year.