Travel

You'll warm to near-Arctic Oslo

It's late March in Oslo harbour. I'm on a ferry crossing Oslofjorden, the ten-mile long fjord that splits the city in two. There's half a metre of snow on deck. "It's cold," I shudder, wrapping myself in another reindeer skin. "So why did you come to Norway?!" bellows the ship's Captain Birdseye look-alike. Within minutes I get my answer, as the near-Arctic sun lights up the harbour, revealing a breathtaking view of the city and surrounding forests.

If you're looking for a city break that offers something a bit different, Oslo is perfect. With just 500,000 inhabitants, most attractions are well within walking distance. Grab a 48-hour Oslo pass for €38, which covers transport and the main tourist sights, and you'll have plenty to do. From Karl Johansgaten, the main drag in the city centre, you are a five-minute walk from the Royal Palace, seat of King Harald V (who is the spitting image of the late writer Roald Dahl).

The must-see Vigeland Sculpture Park, which contains 212 bronze and clay figures, is another five-minute walk away, while the Viking museum, with three resurrected long boats, is also worth a visit. But save most of your time for the polar vessel 'Fram', housed in the nearest thing to a shrine for Norwegian explorers. The three-masted schooner was used by Roald Amundsen, the first person to reach both North and South Poles. You can climb aboard to experience polar living conditions for yourself.

Oslo is also perfect for winter sports fans. A 20-minute tram ride takes you and ski-booted locals from the city centre to the mountains. Most head for the 2,000km of cross-country ski trails, but even if you're not a keen skier, you should check out the Holmenkollen ski jump. It's the second oldest ski-jump in the world, and offers fabulous views of the city below.

If you have time to explore outside the city, take the short boat ride to Drøbak, a pretty seaside village with traditional wooden houses. It's home to Oscarsborg, one of Norway's most famous fortresses. Today it's just a museum, but in April 1940 its two 28cm guns took part in the sinking of the German cruiser Blücher, bringing an end to the Phoney War.

As for where to stay, the Hotel Continental (from £142.50 a night, via Expedia.co.uk), is ideal. Centrally located in front of the National Theatre on Karl Johansgaten, its lively bar boasts Norway's largest private collection of Edvard Munch's lithographs and woodcuts. So there's plenty to look at if the weather takes a turn for the worse.