Travel

Where to go for guaranteed snow

If you're planning a winter sports break, the weather is vital – you can't do much without snow. That's why anyone planning a ski or snowboarding trip should consider Austria's Arlberg region. At its lowest point, the area is 1,300 metres above sea level, reaching as high as 2,811 metres – so good snow is almost guaranteed up until the end of April. And with more than 270km of slopes, and 180km of deep-snow runs, there's lots of options for skiers of all skill levels.

Better yet, the region is home to Lech and Zürs, two of "the world's most exclusive ski resorts", as The Daily Telegraph puts it, with "six five-star and 49 four-star hotels between them". Yet "both villages remain refreshingly unpretentious". We stayed in Zürs at Bentleys House, a recently opened timber and brick-built boutique chalet in the centre of this small but cultured town.

As it was low season, we had an entire three double-bedroom apartment to ourselves. The spacious main lounge and kitchen area is adorned with designer furniture, as well as perhaps the world's biggest TV. In case anyone gets bored with playing in the snow, the apartment also comes with the latest games consoles, and guests can use the spa and gym. As with most hotels in the region, ski lift passes – giving access to the Alberg's 83 mountain railways and lifts – can be bought at the reception.

Breakfast at Bentleys is a traditional Alpine affair: bread, cheese, sliced meats and muesli – a good way to set you up for an active day on the piste. On our first day the snow was quite dense, and visibility poor, so as inexperienced skiers we decide to take the free bus into Lech to try an alternative winter sport. We took a cable car up the mountain to the toboggan run in Oberlech – a 1.2km run that descends through the forest into the centre of Lech. Bob sleighs are available for hire at the cable car terminals for €5. Having spent an exhilarating three hours on the run, we stopped for a reasonably priced, tasty lunch (Lech has more award-winning restaurants than any other village in Austria), before spending the afternoon at a small ice rink in the hotel Monzabon.

On our return to Zürs, we headed to the hotel restaurant for a four-course dinner, including a delicious main of venison sauté served with celery purée and blueberries. The highlight, though, was the dessert: Kaiserschmarren, a light, caramelised pancake served in the pan with a sweet apple sauce and ice cream. The restaurant is also open to non-residents, and a typical meal costs between €50 and €60.

If the slopes don't wear you out, there are lots of après-ski options. Zürs, with its cocktail bars, tends to cater for an older crowd; the more adventurous should hop on a bus to Lech – the James nightbus runs between the two towns until 4am. The Daily Telegraph suggests visiting Tannbergerhof in Lech in order to sample its "legendary gluhwein", while for live music fans, Fux jazz cafe is a must.

Although many people arrive in Lech and Zürs via flights to Zurich or Innsbruck, Friedrichschafen in Germany is the closest airport. A transfer with the Graubünden Express will costs you €80 for a return trip. There is also a train station attached to the airport with trains running to Langen am Arlberg, which is 17km away from Lech and Zürs.

Bentleys prices start from €380 per night.

Contact: www.bentleyshouse.com; 00 43 5583 2463.

Lech and Zürs: two other places to stay

Hotel Edelweiss
6763 Zürs am Arlberg
Prices start from €210 per person per night
Tel: 00 43 (0) 5583 2662
Web: www.edelweiss.net
email: hotel@edelweiss.net

Hotel Gasthof Post
A-6764 Lech am Arlberg
Prices start from €260 per room  per night
Tel: 00 43 (0) 5583 22060
Web: www.postlech.com; email: info@postlech.com